Firstly, thanks Justin for making this video lesson. I've just strung a guitar that has been sitting unplayed in the corner for the last little while and I used Nashville tuning. I've a feeling I'll be playing that guitar a whole lot more now. It sounds great - only with strumming mind you - and I can see how useful this will be to me. I'm slowly learning more and more fingerstyle but most of all I enjoy strumming and singing as I always have. I use double-tracking every time I record and I'm looking forward to using Nashville Tuning on future recordings and can see how it will lend that extra something that wouldn't be there with just the same part played again - an extra dimension if you will.
I bought a set of Martin Extra Light (Green Pack) for 12-string and used that to do it.
There are two things I'd like to mention. Firstly, I tried to come as close as possible to a sensible use of the strings that were available to me in this pack, following Justin's little chart on the lesson page, and it seems to have worked well.
From this pack I used:-
and tuned normally but an octave higher for all but the e and B strings as Justin teaches.
One thing struck me however... I was at first a bit confused because on Justin's lesson page for Nashville Tuning he seems to have moved the decimal point over by one place. His chart suggests ".10" instead of ".010". It led me to at first think that he must be talking in centimetres.
I've been playing for a while now but I'm kind of dumb when it comes to string gauges, I just buy a pack of what I know and string 'em. I understand what he meant now but just wonder if this might be edited on the lessons page so that other idiots like myself don't fall into the same confusion? An inch is an inch after all and making string sizes 10x larger could have serious consequences for the neck of any acoustic.
Secondly, it is stated both in the video and on the gauge chart that the bottom two strings should be Wound Round but in much other info on Nashville tuning on the Internet it is suggested that only the 6th is so. In fact many people suggest just using a 12-string pack and using "odd" strings from that which would make the 5th string an unwound string.
I used the .023W that was originally intended for one of the the G-strings on a 12-string guitar (5th/12) for the 5th/6 string and the .030W that was originally intended to be used for the D-string (7th/12) for the 6th/6 and this follows as closely as possible to Justin's suggestions on the chart.
It seems to work well. None feel too tight or too loose and the guitar plays well. I checked the height above the fretboard too by fretting at the 1st and 14th fret. There is just room to slip a tram-ticket between the bottom of the string and the top of the 10th fret so it looks like I won't have to adjust the truss-rod.
My thanks go to Justin once again for such a great lesson and explanation in the video. I'm surprised that until now there have been no messages in this thread and I can only think that might be because not many ever use this tuning. If that's the case then I'd urge anyone who records to at least consider using it. I admit that I have not recorded with it yet but it is such a logical step to take for any recording using double tracking that it simply MUST be a good idea to try.
[Off-topic: I'd just like to wish Justin, all the mods and everyone else on the forum a Very Happy New Year because it's almost midnight now and although I no longer join in with the madness out there I do (grudgingly) acknowledge that another year awaits us all.]